Page 2 - Formula Boss

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As an everyday reference tool,
Formula Boss
is as valuable to novices as it is to accomplished
color specialists. It addresses the most common salon situations that every working colorist
faces again and again. All it assumes is a basic understanding of haircolor and some familiarity with
brand. The formulas are divided into three major categories—Highlights and Blonde,
Red and Brunette. The blonde formulas include glazes and toners; all include gray-coverage
options. The charts themselves are instantly accessible: just choose your color category, check
your client’s existing color situation and select a formula, based on desired results.
• The “Tips” section provides additional information, easy adjustments, cautions and advice
for enhanced creativity. Not all formulas need additional tips. For instance, some use a single
shade, because sometimes, 5NN is all the job requires.
• If you are not familiar with Redken, there are several ways to introduce yourself to the brand,
starting at
But even if you’re new to the brand, the formulas are so
sensible and salon friendly, you shouldn’t have any trouble using them.
• A note of caution on converting: not all 6Ns are created equal. If you use a competitive brand,
you cannot simply swap your 6N for Redken’s and expect to achieve the same results.
Formula conversions require an understanding of the level and tonal differences among brands.
Observe them by swatching-out Levels 5, 6 and 7, which are the biggest sellers in every brand.
Then get to know your N and NN families, also known as your gray-coverage shades.
• So you can use the best tool for your specific situation, I’ve included permanent, demi-permanent
and high-lift formulas, as well as decolorizers. Remember, it’s what you pick and where you
put it that makes all the difference.
• When mixing formulas, use your best judgment about using more or less product. In general,
for my retouch clients who rebook every 4 to 6 weeks, I use 1½ to 2 ounces of product. (Color
plus developer.) When using
Shades EQ Gloss
Shades EQ Cream
to refresh the midshaft
and ends (zones 2 and 3 to you
pros), I use 2 to 2½ ounces of product. These amounts
are based on shoulder-length hair. For longer/more abundant hair, use an additional ½ to 1
ounce of product plus developer. Don’t scrimp on saturation or mist the strand with water
or other products. If you do, you’ll risk spotty results and color inconsistencies, such as
notably lighter ends—and not lighter in a good way.